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Overflow pipes

#1 User is offline   SLAPPY 

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 07:01 PM

Right

I'm gonna put in a new overflow pipe into the tank 3x2x2 using VDL 40mm, I'm not going to bother with a ball valve but was thinking of welding the pipework on the overflow side to the shape of a U bend, similar to that of a sink.

Will this keep it quiet?

Overflow will be coming out of the side of the tank as it's already been drilled on the side and not the base.
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#2 User is offline   Crabbit 

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 09:25 PM

Have you heard how quiet Dylan's tank is with a durso stand pipe? If i were you i would put a 90 on the pipe work in the Wier with a hole in the top of air. That will be quieter. But it depends on the noise of it going down the pipe or the noise of the water hitting at the bottom of the pipe. Which one are you trying to get rid of?
Life is to short for frags
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#3 User is offline   SLAPPY 

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 09:39 PM

View PostCrabbit, on Nov 9 2008, 09:25 PM, said:

But it depends on the noise of it going down the pipe or the noise of the water hitting at the bottom of the pipe. Which one are you trying to get rid of?


Both.

So are you saying put a Durso inside the weir?
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#4 User is offline   Crabbit 

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 10:37 PM

View Postslappy, on Nov 9 2008, 11:39 PM, said:

Both.

So are you saying put a Durso inside the weir?


The noise of the water entering the pipe at the weir add a 90 in the weir so you have a kind of durso or if its the noise of the water dropping down the pipe. In which case put a valve and restrict the flow so the pipe fills up and has less noise. Good until snails get stuck in it.
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#5 User is offline   SLAPPY 

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Posted 09 November 2008 - 10:47 PM

View PostCrabbit, on Nov 9 2008, 10:37 PM, said:

The noise of the water entering the pipe at the weir add a 90 in the weir so you have a kind of durso or if its the noise of the water dropping down the pipe. In which case put a valve and restrict the flow so the pipe fills up and has less noise. Good until snails get stuck in it.



Ok thanks, looks like I'll have to do both and get a ballvalve to do the job.
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#6 User is offline   Dave.I 

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 08:48 PM

I know nothing about out top ups or float switches but was thinking about putting a float switch and pump in the weir chamber that will turn on and pump water to the sump if the overflow gets a bit blocket at the ball valve.Would this work?
I have mine backed up with a ball valve Tony and its silent.I had to put the over flow just under water in the sump with an elbow or it would take in air from sump level and hiss bubbles every few mins.

Dave
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#7 User is offline   SLAPPY 

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Posted 11 November 2008 - 10:22 PM

Ok thanks for that Dave, I'm gonna a ballvalve for the pipes.

Putting a pump in the weir may or may not work, the only thing to do it give it a try and see how it goes.
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#8 User is offline   Crabbit 

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Posted 12 November 2008 - 02:49 PM

View PostDave.I, on Nov 11 2008, 10:48 PM, said:

I know nothing about out top ups or float switches but was thinking about putting a float switch and pump in the weir chamber that will turn on and pump water to the sump if the overflow gets a bit blocket at the ball valve.Would this work?
I have mine backed up with a ball valve Tony and its silent.I had to put the over flow just under water in the sump with an elbow or it would take in air from sump level and hiss bubbles every few mins.

Dave

The motor idea might work but it has to be able to pump as much water out as the sump pump pushing the water in. You could always drill another hole higher up in the weir so this comes in to play if the water level rises in the weir. But always a problem if the tank is now full of water.
Life is to short for frags
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#9 User is offline   Wave Ace 

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Posted 12 November 2008 - 11:25 PM

Most use two out let pipes one (lower) with a valve on and one (higher) that just has a trickle of water going down this one act as an back up if the lower one fails

Posted Image


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#10 User is offline   SLAPPY 

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Posted 13 November 2008 - 05:24 PM

Thanks for that.

That was what I was thinking of doing. There are 2 x 27mm holes in the weir, I'm going to cap one off and keep the other one as a backup overflow.

The lower outlet will be VDL 40mm
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#11 User is offline   chriss 

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Posted 14 November 2008 - 09:11 AM

View PostDave.I, on Nov 11 2008, 08:48 PM, said:

I know nothing about out top ups or float switches but was thinking about putting a float switch and pump in the weir chamber that will turn on and pump water to the sump if the overflow gets a bit blocket at the ball valve.Would this work?


Probably not, when the pump isn't running it will act as a syphon so will be shifting water all the time. You would be better to add a float switch in the tank which will turn off the return pump if the level gets too high. When I relocated my sump out to the garage I added a floatswitch to the tank for this very purpose and it works. I've found the switch 100% reliable, I've only noticed it get used in anger a couple of times when the tank outlets got a bit clogged up with coralline and stuff, I don't even worry about keeping it sparkly clean, just check it every couple of months.

Chris
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#12 User is offline   Falcn 

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Posted 07 March 2009 - 08:47 PM

I'm just completing the build of my new tank and am trying this design Silent and Safe Overflow

Well worth a read.
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#13 User is offline   john h 

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Posted 07 March 2009 - 09:30 PM

HI all
ive only got one pipe down to the sump with a 90 elbow in the weir and although i dont get the gurgling drain noise i get the running water noise within the pipe.However i was afraid to restrict the flow in case of flooding the room if i got it wrong.To fit a cutoff switch for the pump would give peice of mind so how do you do it and where do i get one?
cheers john h.
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#14 User is offline   Dave.I 

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 02:57 PM

If you make the last sump chamber that your return pump sits in quite small then it wont flood.The pump will empty the chamber to a level that it starts drawing air and water and it will then not pump any more water up.The other thing to do is have a sump capable of taking the volume of your overflow section without over flowing the sump.hth

Dave
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#15 User is offline   tillysreef 

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 04:27 PM

ive got bombers old seashell 4x2x2 ish and that had a corner wier which was just ahole in the bottom so i put a durso in there diy style and its now almost silent
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#16 User is offline   BOM8ER 

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 05:41 PM

View Posttillysreef, on Mar 8 2009, 04:27 PM, said:

ive got bombers old seashell 4x4x2 and that had a corner wier which was just ahole in the bottom so i put a durso in there diy style and its now almost silent


I cant remember it being that big I must be coming down with Amnesia :D
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#17 User is offline   tillysreef 

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 07:48 PM

View PostBOM8ER, on Mar 8 2009, 05:41 PM, said:

I cant remember it being that big I must be coming down with Amnesia :sign_lol:

well spotted lol
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#18 User is offline   SLAPPY 

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Posted 08 March 2009 - 09:35 PM

Thanks for the link.

Noise is now no longer a problem as the tank will now be on the other side of the wall in the garage.
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